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The Reporter's Notebook
Myanmar (Burma) has its own way of storing gold.
The Shwedagon Pagoda is one of the premier Buddhist temples in the world and dates back some 2,500 years.
Here in the U.S. we think of things 200-300 years old as really old. Not there, nor in most of the world.
This huge monument wears thousands of tons of gold, like a coat in cold weather.
As if this isn’t rich enough, it has thousands of diamonds on its top, including one of over 70 carats.
I like to think of myself as a contributor to the country’s wealth.
While there, I patiently watched as a local pounded out gold leaf that I could purchase and then apply it to the temple monument.
Now I admit that my $10 gold leaf contribution probably didn’t shake up Burma’s economy, but it was fun nevertheless.
The temple complex is massive and an important part of national life.
Though the country was ruled by communists, they didn’t try to interrupt the people from visiting the temple.
I don’t think they could have.
While the temple complex is 2,500 years old, the gold layer was started only late in the 18th century.
It seems a bit iffy about the gold being six inches thick as they claim.
I have always wondered how they got the gold on the upper reaches of the temple, ladders. Doesn’t seem likely.
And that much gold would be very heavy. It seems it would bring the structure down.
But it shines and there is no doubt that it is covered in gold.
The shrine is Burma’s Fort Knox, and probably has us beat in gold tonnage.
This temple is one of three sites that I have visited that sets you back on your heels. The other two are the ancient temple of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and the king’s palace in Thailand.
I got started wrong at Shwedagon in Yangon (Rangoon) by forgetting to take my shoes off.
I was immediately corrected and then ventured inside.
There were hundreds if not thousands doing just what I was doing, although they had done so many times. You can just wiggle out of your shoes and leave them there or if you prefer, put them in lockers provided nearby.
You might ask how they get by, by rubbing tons of gold leaf on the temple. I didn’t see any guards, nor did I see anyone trying to peel off the gold.
I think the temple is of such national pride that no one would think of such a thing.
I was in the country for only 72 hours, all they would allow.
The other two sites that I mentioned earlier are quite different.
Angkor Wat was built in the 12th century and doesn’t show any signs of wealth. No golden walls here, just grey stones.
It was rediscovered in the mid 1800s, taken over by the jungle growth.
The king’s palace in Bangkok is spectacular, and gilded. It was built in the 1870s and was the home for the king for some 150 years. While it is showy, it doesn’t have the history of the other two.
I was able to see the inside of the palace long enough to present a gift to the king on behalf of a friend who had a sapphire mine in Montana.
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